Namche Bazar to Phortse – April 22

Now we begin climbing higher so it is extra important we watch for signs of altitude sickness in ourselves and others. The first signs of altitude sickness may be a headache, slight gurgling when you breathe, dizziness, shortness of breath and/or nausea. These can be signs of oncoming cerebral or pulmonary edema, which is fluid or blood on the brain or lungs. I am battling a cold due to the dust and whatever else is stirred up into the air.

The trail out of Namche Bazar was like an escalator of people. Most if not all were headed to Base Camp. The views all around Namche were breathtaking and with each step became more and more stunning. We took it slowly and paused frequently to take pictures and allow ourselves to acclimate.

The mood in the group was positive. We were gelling as a team, getting to know each others’ personalities. We took selfies and photos of each other to share with loved ones and save for posterity. Another reason we were in good spirits was because one of our team mates dodged a bullet of a bacterial infection. It was caught soon enough for him to be treated at the hospital in Namche. Thank goodness the timing coincided with our rest day there.

We reached 13,000 feet at our lunch spot, the Buddha Lodge, above the river valley. But what goes up, must come down. After lunch, we descended at least 1,000 feet to the river and then began our climb back up to Phortse at 13,500 feet. It was tough but beautiful.

Phortse is a quiet, rural, village with hand built stone walls lining the trails between houses and the flat terraces used for yaks or growing root vegetables. I felt like we were walking through a Labyrinth. Homes are built in traditional Sherpa style with stone and mud walls, roofs lined with corrugated steel and stone slabs on top to hold down the steel panels. There is a central stove in each home to heat the interior and boil water. Above the tree line, yak dung is used as the fuel. Water must be carried up from the river.

Pasang showed us the new Khumbu Climbing Center sponsored by the Alex Lowe foundation, which my friend Mike worked on this past November. Once construction is complete, this will be a state-of-the-art mountain and ice climbing training center for Sherpas, as well as community gathering area for the people in Phortse. A couple local families donated their land for the facility.

Scott and I continued exploring the village, walking up to the monastery at the upper ends of town. We were delighted to see three Danphes, the national bird of Nepal. Danphes look like oversized quail with the coloring and markings of a peacock. Absolutely beautiful with an alluring call. We considered their sighting to be a good omen.

Dawa was born in the village of Phortse and orphaned as a toddler. His aunt, whom he hasn’t seen in seven years, still lives in the village. It is several days walk to Phortse from Lukla, which is the only major transportation service to this part of Nepal. After dinner, Dawa’s aunt brought us milk tea as a special gift. Dawa told the story of his upbringing, including how he was able to go to school and gain Nepalese citizenship thanks to Gary’s sponsorship. It was heartwarming to see this young man overcome such difficult obstacles in life and be at peace, giving back to others less fortunate by working at a school for autistic children in Kathmandu.

At this lodge, the restroom is a squatting toilet outside the rooms and down the hall. One sink has running water. It is important to never drink the water, rinse a toothbrush in it, or even let the water touch our lips. The Nepalese have developed constitutions that are fine with this water quality, but we westerners can get ill very quickly. As we go higher up the mountain, it is evident how life is more difficult in these cold climates, and some are barely hanging by a thread financially. Nepal is a very poor country, but the people are rich in unconditional love and kindness. I am growing to love and respect the Nepalese more and more each day as I experience the way they live, and see the overflowing generosity bestowed on any visitor.

Tomorrow we travel from Phortse to Dingboche (ding bo chay), rest for acclimatization in Dingboche, then climb up to above 16,000 feet and beyond. Everest, here we come! I’ll write more when we have Wifi again.